I remember the young 2003 making a strong impression for it’s fun, concentrated fruit-essence style. This wine (bottled in January) is almost as much fun, but considerable more sophisticated. From Bouchard’s own 2.9 hectares of vines. The nose is wider and fresher than the Bourgogne, with darker-skinned fruits and a little oak spice. Fuller in the mouth, considerably more serious structure – some grain to the tannin which clings to your teeth – yet this retains a fun face. Supple and ripe. Nice wine.