A dumb nose. The palate is far from dumb – power-packed with tons of structure but very fine fruit bubbles way below. Good length and certainly austere but in the best sense of the word.

From a parcel of quite well-placed vines, planted just above the Château de la Tour. A tight but faintly sweet nose. Clearly there is lots and lots of structure here, but equally clearly this is the longest finishing wine of the series. Classic, austere, young Clos de Vougeot and probably almost good value.