Bourgogne Pinot Noir

2005 Croix (des) Bourgogne Pinot Noir

By billn on February 08, 2011

Popped and poured. Still a relatively deep, purple-highlighted colour. The very faint background reduction mixes with a little oak and higher-toned alcoholic notes – that could be a little CO2 – let’s see. Slowly that slightly volatile element calms with, first, high-toned redcurrant then raspberry as the aromatic profile becomes more settled. Fine, soft tannin, slightly plush with a very silky texture. Really good pinot flavour and again an oaky impression plus a little creamy depth in the mid-palate. Really fills the mouth but with dimension rather and acid-driven expansion. Super. Wait a couple of hours and the oak/reduction is on a lower level and the nose is both deeper and darker. And the flavour, well it rather recedes – it’s still there and still interesting but you have to chew harder on the tannin to find it – still without the dimension of its early phase. Just very good young wine with a quality level bearing no resemblance to its label. Day 2?: The nose is now about blackberry/blackcurrant. The palate is a little unusual as it starts wide but narrows very quickly – the cream undertow is back and the fruit is darker than the first day, but it is almost cordial-like – far too easy to drink!

2005 Morey Pierre Bourgogne Pinot Noir

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is deep and heavily scented, darkly fruited, edged with a little cream and with something just a little more floral above – very impressive. The palate is a little more linear than the nose, medium density with good dark fruit, slightly forward acidity and a nice extra dimension in the mid-palate. The reasonably grained tannin is in the background.

2005 Doudet-Naudin Bourgogne Pinot Noir

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

A large heavy bottle with a punt you could lose your fingers in, shame the attention to detail misses the cheapest of cheap plastic capsules. Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a little oak, but it’s quickly lost, becoming wider with plenty of high tones and a faintly cedar depth – eventually a nice red berry note too. Some fat and reasonable depth – in fact it’s very tasty. On the negative side the acidity is slightly lifted and the flavours are a little muddled together. Not exactly cheap for a bourgogne either at 20 Sfr, but far from a bad value bottle – and as I said it’s quite tasty.

2005 Guyot Olivier Bourgogne Pinot Noir

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose has a dense and slightly rustic core, but above soars beautiful and very fine fruit. There is some fat and a dense core that reflects the nose. The acidity is slightly bright but that’s par for the course for many tightening 2005 wines. Finer fruit than the appellation might suggest but with good fat and an engaging hint of rusticity. On day two, even that rusticity is gone – super! – I bought a couple more.

2005 Croix (des) Bourgogne Pinot Noir

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose is pungent with creamy, mineral, ripe and soft red fruit – it’s like a grand cru – an okay start then! The palate is not quite so silky smooth as the Morgon, but the concentration is undoubted, neither is the quality of the creamy fruit that pushes, long, long into the finish. The creaminess seems to have an oaky base, so I’d personally let this slumber a while despite its ‘come hither’ demeanour – just like you would any cru. Its modern-styled and with a decent dose of oak, but ignoring the Leroy 2004 Bourgogne (appellation chimera) this could be the best bourgogne I’m ever likely to buy!

2005 Guyon Bourgogne Pinot Noir

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

From vines near Vosne-Romanée. An interesting dark nose. Soft in the mouth with excellent dark fruit and reasonable length. Excellent bourgogne.

2005 Giroud Camille Bourgogne Pinot Noir

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Medium plus colour. The nose is wide, ripe and softly red fruited. In the mouth you have to get past a little dissolved carbon dioxide – it’s the first time that David Croix hasn’t racked during elevage – frankly you need an hour after opening or a few minutes in a decanter. You return to find a really good depth and balance and an uncommon length for the label. The nose has now taken on an additional toffee dimension. I get the impression there is also a reasonable amount of village level material in this as it’s very good.

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