There’s a tight core of red fruit with cedar overtones on the nose. Understated entry before bursting with fruit on the mid-palate, perhaps this is in-part due to a little petillance, but the texture is very good and the length compelling. Understated middleweight elegance.
Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes
2004 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes
Only two barrels. Louis-Michel really needs to watch this cuvée because the smaller quantity can ferment all-to quickly and produce an edge of harshness. Be keeping tabs and generally bringing more control into the cuvaison he’s sure that the wine is greatly improved. Deeper colour. A quite lovely nose of red berries and cherries, wide, high-toned and perfumed. Extra density vs the village wines, super acidity and again great texture. The finish widens out beautifully. Real class.
2004 Ardhuy Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes
Bottled in September. I was tempted not to include this as I’d like it all for myself! A reticent nose that needs quite some coaxing from the glass – it’s worth the effort though. This is one of those transparent and haunting noses that stay in the glass long after you drain it – very lovely. Real concentration on the palate, just a little fat, with flavours that are exquisitely precise. This is a really lovely wine – warmly recommended, provided there’s enough left for me.