Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. High tones overlay a nose of considerable depth – earthy and cedar aspects and a slightly ‘lifted’ impression – but throughout our time together the nose remains completely understated. This wine bursts with excitement; it’s intense and the forward acidity makes it difficult to hold the wine in your mouth. The tannin is very well covered and the finish only slowly fades. It’s not as long as the best here but it’s not too far behind. This is an excellent bottle.
Clos de Vougeot
2004 Potel Nicolas Clos de Vougeot
2004 Gambal Alex Clos de Vougeot
This year 4 barrels from two suppliers. Medium colour. The nose is very tight so giving little away, though a touch of cedar is apparent, eventually a little high-toned cherry evolves. Good, well textured tannins coupled to good concentration. Another 2004 Clos de Vougeot with classic austerity. Needs plenty of time.
2004 Bertagna Clos de Vougeot
2004 Clos Frantin Clos de Vougeot
Versus the Malconsorts; darker with a much tighter nose – almost unforgiving in nature – classic, austere, young Clos de Vougeot. Very linear in presentation, concentrated, long and backed up with very executive tannins – very fine. This wine makes quite a statement, and rather like their (Pavillon’s) Corton-Charlemagne, a wine for the future.