More evolved aromas that even hint at maturity with a few forest leaves, though for now they are clearly subordinate to the fruit. This is very full, full of tannin too but quite finely grained. There remains a little dryness, but like sand it’s not astringent.
2003
2003 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
A ripe but still quite mineral nose. Full on the palate – clearly there’s no raging torrent of acidity but this is nicely mouth-watering – and not just as an afterthought. There is density and real authority to the mid-palate flavours, would make a great match to many dishhes at table. This has no sharp edges at all – this balance indicates no rush to drink.
2003 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
A ripe but still quite mineral nose. Full on the palate – clearly there’s no raging torrent of acidity but this is nicely mouth-watering – and not just as an afterthought. There is density and real authority to the mid-palate flavours, would make a great match to many dishhes at table. This has no sharp edges at all – this balance indicates no rush to drink.
2003 Ravaut Gaston et Pierre Corton Les Hautes Murottes
2003 Latour Henri Auxey-Duresses Les Grands Champs
2003 Jadot Louis Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées
Medium-plus colour. The nose on this is also a little tight at the core, hints of menthol above red berries – here the fruit has a candied coating. Silky and intense. the acidity is understated but completely adequate. There’s a dark flavour in the mid-palate that is partly mineral, partly resembling licorice, partly saline – it is very long lasting. In all dimensions this is more muscular than the 2006, but I have the impression that what the 06 lacks in muscle it makes up for in intensity.
2003 Girardin Vincent Chevalier-Montrachet
And what an impressive bottle – and I mean the bottle – a super-deep punt and heavy glass. On pouring, nothing untoward on the colour, but the nose has the first whiffs of oxidation – annoying rather than destructive. Across the palate this is certainly balanced enough and displays a generous extra mass versus the 03 Girardin Charlemagne, the texture is good too. Unfortunately this is linear and young – tasty but little overt complexity – just what you don’t want to hear after the oxidative hints on the nose. That’s a shame, as non-oxidising bottles won’t be anywhere near peaking in the next 5 years…
2003 Girardin Vincent Corton-Charlemagne
Medium-plus yellow. The nose is dense and ripe at the core, but a mix of floral and savoury notes makes this quite complex and interesting. In the mouth there’s decently textured impact and good mid-palate dimension. It doesn’t really seem to want for acidity. Tasty enough that the bottle didn’t last very long!
2003 Lachaux Pascal Latricières-Chambertin
Medium-plus colour. Brooding aromas of dark cherry and cassis that are framed with warm, sweet coffee. Mouth-filling, slightly acid-shy but good texture and fantastic length. There’s a slight bitterness that mingles with the creamy fruit in the mid-palate, tannin is fine with the merest leading-edge of astringency. Really, this a bottle to wallow in rather than intellectualise over, yet the IQ is there if you want to challenge it. Very impressive indeed.