2003

2003 Pavillon Pommard Les Rugiens

By billn on March 22, 2011

More evolved aromas that even hint at maturity with a few forest leaves, though for now they are clearly subordinate to the fruit. This is very full, full of tannin too but quite finely grained. There remains a little dryness, but like sand it’s not astringent.

2003 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

By billn on December 06, 2010

A ripe but still quite mineral nose. Full on the palate – clearly there’s no raging torrent of acidity but this is nicely mouth-watering – and not just as an afterthought. There is density and real authority to the mid-palate flavours, would make a great match to many dishhes at table. This has no sharp edges at all – this balance indicates no rush to drink.

2003 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

By billn on December 03, 2010

A ripe but still quite mineral nose. Full on the palate – clearly there’s no raging torrent of acidity but this is nicely mouth-watering – and not just as an afterthought. There is density and real authority to the mid-palate flavours, would make a great match to many dishhes at table. This has no sharp edges at all – this balance indicates no rush to drink.

2003 Ravaut Gaston et Pierre Corton Les Hautes Murottes

By billn on December 01, 2010

The nose delivers faint leaves and an almost textured effect .- sweet fruit underpins everything. It offers the unashamed ripe fruit flavours of the vintage which, in this case, I don’t find too wearing. Holding well…

2003 Latour Henri Auxey-Duresses Les Grands Champs

By billn on December 01, 2010

The nose shows hints of leaves against a core of fruit. Lots of sweetness here, decent width too. There is plenty of tannin too that needs the sweetness of the fruit to buffer a little astringency. Clearly a child of the vintage, but there is balance enough to drink and even enjoy today.

2003 Jadot Louis Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées

By billn on July 31, 2010

Medium-plus colour. The nose on this is also a little tight at the core, hints of menthol above red berries – here the fruit has a candied coating. Silky and intense. the acidity is understated but completely adequate. There’s a dark flavour in the mid-palate that is partly mineral, partly resembling licorice, partly saline – it is very long lasting. In all dimensions this is more muscular than the 2006, but I have the impression that what the 06 lacks in muscle it makes up for in intensity.

2003 Girardin Vincent Chevalier-Montrachet

By billn on February 25, 2010

And what an impressive bottle – and I mean the bottle – a super-deep punt and heavy glass. On pouring, nothing untoward on the colour, but the nose has the first whiffs of oxidation – annoying rather than destructive. Across the palate this is certainly balanced enough and displays a generous extra mass versus the 03 Girardin Charlemagne, the texture is good too. Unfortunately this is linear and young – tasty but little overt complexity – just what you don’t want to hear after the oxidative hints on the nose. That’s a shame, as non-oxidising bottles won’t be anywhere near peaking in the next 5 years…

2003 Girardin Vincent Corton-Charlemagne

By billn on February 25, 2010

Medium-plus yellow. The nose is dense and ripe at the core, but a mix of floral and savoury notes makes this quite complex and interesting. In the mouth there’s decently textured impact and good mid-palate dimension. It doesn’t really seem to want for acidity. Tasty enough that the bottle didn’t last very long!

2003 Lachaux Pascal Latricières-Chambertin

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour. Brooding aromas of dark cherry and cassis that are framed with warm, sweet coffee. Mouth-filling, slightly acid-shy but good texture and fantastic length. There’s a slight bitterness that mingles with the creamy fruit in the mid-palate, tannin is fine with the merest leading-edge of astringency. Really, this a bottle to wallow in rather than intellectualise over, yet the IQ is there if you want to challenge it. Very impressive indeed.

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