Wide and fresh aromatics with just a hint of herbs. There is lovely width, intensity and energy too – quite a silky texture. There is super mid-palate flavour. Yum.
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Corton-Charlemagne
2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
2002 Guyon Antonin Corton-Charlemagne
My last of these, the previous two were rather oxidised. Medium gold. The nose has hints of toffee – a sort of tarte tartin – lots of depth, and yes it’s just tending to oxidation, but to this minor extent I can live with it. Width, decent acidity and good intensity. The length has hints of oxidative notes that to a certain extent compromise the finish but there are also nice creamy hints with waxy lanolin. Drinkable.
2002 Guyon Antonin Corton-Charlemagne
Drunk directly following Drouhin’s 02 Puligny Clos de la Garenne. This is just a little darker yellow. The nose frankly assaults your senses with wide, brawny notes of flowers, wet wool, creamy vanilla and just a little honey. The palate is likewise, no model of restraint; muscled, rippling acidity wrapped in a slightly buttery fatness but somehow also an edge of minerality that shows on the long finish. It’s a show of muscles here, but it’s a very impressive show.
2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Medium-pale lemon-yellow. A high-toned, slightly alcoholic nose that slowly turns from green to yellow-skinned fruit. The palate already shows fine, soft texture and an impressive length. Sweet from the ripe fruit with super balancing acidity. This is a very round and tasty wine that shows a modest burst of fireworks on the mid-palate. Already the oak is mainly consumed – very good Corton-Charlemagne. I’d drink this over the next 18 months and then leave the rest for 8+ years.
2002 Bertagna Corton-Charlemagne
Medium-pale lemon-yellow, edged with green. Lovely depth to the nose, starts with a whisp of aniseed, leaving cream-edged citrus fruit against fresh bread. The beautifully clean palate is linear, ripe and sweet, and really expands from the mid-palate into the strong finish. No obvious oak influence, save for a creamy element. Very fine intensity. Young, obviously, but very tasty. A wine to drink now or save 5+ years.
2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
A young, pale colour. A wine whose aromatics major on fruit. Seems fat, but needs just a little more time as there’s still a little oak marking the palate. Gives the impression of lower acidity, but perhaps that’s due to the extra fat. Probably starting to sing as you read this – or leave until 2015+