Medium golden colour. The nose has some high tones of green-skinned fruit that balances a honied base enough to retain a fresh impression. Width and a little sweet fat – the acidity is fresh though from time to time nearly spiky. The flavours are mineral, a little baked bread and a final salty tang. The finish is quite long and totally savoury.

Golden. The nose gives an impression of wood, plus a green-skinned fruit aspect. The palate is fresh an linear, certainly mineral, but the acidity is a little sour and grainy. Plenty of intensity on the mid-palate and reasonable length too, but today I found this a little austere – not so enjoyable.

Medium yellow. The nose has depth, high-toned citrus and an initial impression of oak – but it blows off. Wow, after a recent diet of 2003 Côte de Beaunes this is brilliant, not fat but lovely, lovely acidity. Just a little harshness and grain at the back of the palate that is reminiscent of oak. Medium length. It was 22°C today (March!) – so now it’s white wine season – and this works just fine.