Medium, medium-plus colour – just a very faint edge of amber at the rim. The nose is a sniffer’s delight – though the stems are very forward – they overlay a deep and primary red-fruit nose that’s edged with softness and a faint, savoury, musky note. The more it develops in the glass the more savoury it becomes; the last drops showing an extra fineness. In the mouth the wine is clearly grand cru in texture though the concentration is not so up-front, it rather develops on the tongue in an understated way. The tannins are well covered though I find the acidity is the least perfect aspect – not bad, but just a little bright – at this level I demand seamless. There is a subtle extra dimension in the mid-palate and into the finish – which is also very understated. Apart from the nose and the entry, everything about the wine is subtle and low-key – it holds the interest amply though, even the acidity seems well-judged at the death. Very fine now, if not quite mind-bending. I expect it will only get better for at least the next 10 years but it was very much enjoyed – to the last drop!
Romanée Saint-Vivant
2000 Thomas-Moillard Romanée Saint-Vivant
A lovely medium-plus ruby red colour – still just a hint of cherry red at the rim. The nose starts just a little meaty and beetrooty – not so great – but soon there is creamy black cherry but with a hint of reduction, finally it becomes redder, softer, more floral and much more interesting. This wine equals the concentration of the Bonnes-Mares but with a totally different and much more elegant personality. The tannins are in there somewhere, but the super-smooth, high quality fruit is the main attribute. The finish is borne on nicely judged acidity and again hints towards cream-edged black cherry – oh and it’s excellent – really long. Very young, but this is a wine I should perhaps have gone for the ‘full 12′ rather than the 6, it’s also more ‘honest’ about the vintage than the Bonnes-Mares was; obviously ripe with understated acidity and just a little plump. Versus the 1999 at the same time last year this is all the more interesting, elegant and drinkable – the 99 probably needs 10+ years to excite.
2000 Thomas Charles Romanée Saint-Vivant
Really deep cherry colour, just fades gently to the rim. The nose has a lovely focused griotte note which gains emphasis with time, not at all floral. Creamily fat, concentrated, and surprisingly tannic – this has a finish like a fully loaded shiraz. Good acidity and concentrated fruit that seems to be up to the job. I’m surprised how up-front this wine shows – it’s not really for drinking right now, but at least half a dozen will be finding their way to my cellar for 2010+
2000 Romanée-Conti Romanée Saint-Vivant
Cherry in shade and a deeper colour than the previous wine. The nose is more reticent, but certainly shows more complexity than the Echézeaux from a similar fruit profile i.e. red, rather than the black of the Grands Echézeaux. Shows coffee and faint vanilla in the mix too. Compared to the Grands Echézeaux, the palate starts explosively, the velvety tannin grabbing the inside of your mouth to attach the fruit. There’s nice acidity that pushes the persistent finish longer. Lovely.