The colour’s quite dark. Aromatically this is rather monolithic for quite some hours – only on day two do you have more of a Vosne impression, but there is still a solid core of dark, almost roast, licorice-laced fruit. There’s good acidity and balance – just a little lithe in shape and it’s also sneakily, mouth-wateringly long. Whilst it’s not very tannic, there’s the clear impression that everything that could have been extracted, was extracted. Drinkable but despite that, a mile away from drinking ‘nicely’. Wait at least 10 years…
1999
1999 Arlaud Chambolle-Musigny
Rather deeply coloured, and it still looks quite young. The nose is deep and a little meaty, yet is classically (some might say clichéd) Chambolle-Musigny with its very pretty floral top notes – the bass notes are perhaps meatier than your average Chambolle but that’s probably the slow march to maturity. Round, clearly with plenty of extract and a lovely diminuendo into the mouth-watering finish. The tannins give a little astringency if you keep the wine in your mouth, but if you ‘just drink’, the word that comes into my mind is ‘luxurious’. Young but very drinkable. I can only dream that the rest of my 99s would perform to this level right now.
1999 Buisson-Charles Meursault Les Tessons
1999 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny
Medium, medium-plus colour. There’s a depth of really super dark red and black fruit – quite glossy and initially very primary – given time there’s a floral dimension, rather heavy but not to worry, it’s young. Wow; swirl this around in your mouth and there’s a hint of silk but more importantly there’s an intensity that soon rebels – you have to swallow. Okay the acidity is reasonably bright, but the intensity is really about flavour and the depth of that flavour is enough to balance. An impression of tannin remains and a little bitter edge to the long flavour too – eventually the mid-palate takes on an extra dimension of higher-toned, pretty fruit. This really will become one of those sweet and delectable mature wines. Very impressive – you might think was only four or five years of age – not 12; unfortunately that means you should still wait another 4 or 5 years! Super.
1999 Potel Nicolas Volnay En Chevret
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose shows a hint of maturity, layers of aroma cover a tighter core of dark fruit – a little Pommard in style – then below are flashed of pure dark fruit. In the mouth, there’s super balance and plenty of intensity from the still-young flavours. I’d say the palate needs another 3 or 4 years to similar maturity to the nose. Lots of complexity here – drunk far too quickly to be honest!
1999 Mugnier J-F Chambolle-Musigny
Medium colour. The nose seems a tad volatile though below it could be described as quite pretty as its red fruit base slowly evolves. Nicely balanced, with very good acidity. Elegant rather than slight – though not a million miles from the latter – that would be forgiven if it had a beguiling touch too – today it doesn’t. Hopefully a phase, but in a half bottle this is quite ‘ready’ if far from engrossing. Less good than 18 months ago, that volatile hint being an exceptional bottle I hope. Actually was consistent for 2 half bottles from the same case, bought be me on release.