Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

1998 Thomas-Moillard Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

A rather unnattractively muddy, if deep mahogany red colour. The nose is high-toned but the fruit seems a little cooked in profile, wide but unappealing in a stewed tea kind of way. The tannin rather sticks out and I suppose that this was one of those hideously astringent 98’s in it’s first couple of years, but the tannins have moderated – if only a little. The acidity is quite clean and good and eventually you find the one redeeming feature of the wine; nice fruit in the finish with a creamy edge and an understated length. Only two more lie in the cellar, fortunately, and I expect that in the normal Thomas-Moillard style they won’t be close to mature for at least another 10 years. I think they will always be rather uncouth and lacking style. Shame, as the starting material hints of much more potential. It’s very rare that I ‘waste’ wine, but this bottle was poured down the sink on day 2…

1998 Potel Nicolas Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Deep ruby core with a cherry red rim. The nose starts with a blast of blackberry fruit, eventually settles to a mix of minty red fruit pies. Very concentrated fruit, with perfect acidity and long, grippy, but velvetty tannin. The mid-palate starts a little soupy but gradually becomes more and more distinct – tons of complexity. This wine was drunk after the good Engel villages Vosne and has so much extra dimension that it’s hard to believe it’s not a grand cru.

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