Deep colour. One sniff of the nose and I’m smiling; there are the lanolin aromas of an even older wine, and perhaps the merest suggestion of something oxidativebut it’s an interesting complexity – no more – so no complaints. Good acidity and nice intensity too – actually the flavour is very long too. There isn’t the seemless, smooth-ness of a very good vintage but this is a very nice drink. I don’t recommend the odds of taking a replacement bottle, but I’ll happily accept what this one offers.
Corton-Charlemagne
1998 Jadot Louis Corton-Charlemagne
The first pour – ooh quite light colour – but the more you pour, it seems to get darker much faster than expected. The end colour is similar to the 98 Boillot. The nose starts with an unusual ‘warm wool’ aroma, perhaps a little oaky too – but not a hint of oxidation. The wool fades to leave width wafts of ripe fruit – not that much maturity, but the last drops almost have that volatile edge of a redcurranty red-wine. In the mouth, it has intensity, but keep it on your tongue and it bursts with interest and complexity. Very good length. Excellent!
1998 Hospices de Beaune Corton-Charlemagne
Cuvée François de Salins, Maison Paul Reitz. The colour is already a little concerning – a deep, burnished golden – fortunately the aromas have only the barest suggestion of anything oxidative, mainly showcasing a deep core of mature fruit edged with a trace of toffee. The palate is balanced, showing a waxy-smooth texture and a very nice length, redolent of the toffee on the nose. I think this is ready right now and will only decline from here. Very enjoyable – tinged with buyer’s regret as I only bought one!
1998 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne
From magnum. Medium golden. A nose that eventually gave up a creamy width and some savoury tones but consistently focused on the mineral. The palate was likewise mineral with good acidity and a number of waves of flavour prolonging the finish. Vibrant and tasty and stayed strong in the glass for the 2 hours we were together.
1998 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Light yellow. The nose doesn’t burst from the glass quite like the 1997 currently does. With time and swirling you can coax out a little sugar coated pineapple. The mildly oaky palate has good acidity, understated concentration and a finish that builds and builds – I expect the opposite with Corton-Charlemagne! Seemed fatter with the langoustine and not bad with the goat’s cheese. Overall a bit disappointing