Deep and vibrant – lovely colour. The nose has lots of maturity about it, and certainly plenty of complexity; depth, a little morel mushroom, also a little cigar-box that slowly morphs into cedar-ish hints, not unlike the of 2004 pyrazines but in no way over-powering. In the mouth there’s lots of intensity here; super acidity and very understated tannin – very long with a quite mineral flavour. Sweetness of fruit remains an undertow. You could get a great idea of of a mature Charmes by drinking this already – and that’s a very different personality to a young Charmes – but have no fear, there’s another 20 years of interest here for sure. Yum.

Medium-plus ruby-red colour. Bloody with sweet, dank, faintly sulfury oak and tonnes of turned leaf litter on the forward nose. In the mouth your main impression is the sweet river of acidity running through the core. As you reach the mid-palate the wine expands before slowly contracting into a good finish. I would say that there are many, many years in this wine yet, but it seems to be entering an early window of drinkability

Deep ruby-red. The nose is real mix; a hint of ash, pencil lead and faint meaty notes over a core of blackcurrant. The blackcurrant, black fruit edge continues on the palate – almost confiture – but you have to wait about 45 minutes before it comes into focus, medium length. The acidity is well-balanced and the tannin quite subdued – primary fruit though – still needs a few years. Tasty.

Medium-plus garnet, very little fading. The nose is sweet and meaty with a little ash and dried red fruits – more oak than I remember from the last outing. Muscle without fat, some grain to the tannin but melded to lovely ’96 acidity and again some earthy ash. Intense fruit and a lovely, slowly decaying finish. It might not be top-drawer, but it’s a very worthy Grand Cru.

Lovely deep ruby, still with hints of purple. The nose is an impressive mix of blackberry, some subtle smokey notes and a hint of undergrowth – just perceptible coffee too. The palate, without being fat shows concentrated dark cherry fruit, good acidity and relatively smooth, medium tannins. The follow through is not bad – medium-plus length. Not as obviously young as many 96’s but still some way from peaking – good now and should become a lovely wine.