A deep and rich ruby core that shades to pink at the edge. Baked red fruit nose with chocolate and eventually a little pipe tobacco. Reserved acidity for a ’96, some fat and velvetty tannins. Despite showing layers of complexity this is some way from maturity and worth holding onto.

Medium-plus ruby only fading very slightly at the rim. The nose starts with pronounced toasty oak, very quickly blowing off to reveal toasted bread and deep black cherry. In the mouth there’s nice volume, excellent acidity and beautifully controlled smooth tannins. Still a little one-dimensional, but a wine to savour for the next 15 years at least – excellent.

Medium-plus ruby only fading very slightly at the rim. The nose starts with pronounced toasty oak; very quickly blowing off to reveal toasted bread and deep black cherry. In the mouth there’s nice volume, excellent acidity and beautifully controlled smooth tannins. Still a little one-dimensional, but a wine to savour for the next 15 years at least – excellent.