Clos de la Roche

1995 Drouhin Joseph Clos de la Roche

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-pale ruby-red. A little sweetness and minerality on the nose, faint red and orange fruit but for the first hour rather undemonstrative. On your tongue there’s perfect acidity and an intensity that builds all the more over time, though needs at least 1 hour to start becoming interesting. The tannin is relatively background and eventually a little fat develops. This becomes almost good without ever becoming really interesting.

1995 Dujac Clos de la Roche

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

(From Magnum) Medium, medium-plus ruby-red, and a little brighter than the 75cl bottle that I last opened. The nose takes time to get into it’s stride; starting with faint smoke and a slightly estery width, but there is an ever-sweetening and intensifying core of red fruit that eventually becomes more floral – though it’s a heavy rather than refined scent – impressive and moreish all the same. The slowly intensifying fruit on the nose is mirrored by the taste, always building in the mouth, just a transient petillance too. Good acidity and dry but not blocky tannin and long with a dark-fruit aspect to the finish. The stems don’t seem to engender the fresh purity of some wines, but the complexity is there for all to see. Very impressive.

1995 Dujac Clos de la Roche

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium, medium-plus ruby core fading with amber, clear, but not glintingly so, so I double decanted leaving a fine sediment behind. The vacuvined last third of the bottle was no brighter on day two. The unusual nose started very earthy and smokey – perhaps green and stalky – but this left the scene to give up a raisined, dried cherry note after 30-40 minutes. The palate is reasonably fresh with furry tannins that are starting to wane. Not obviously fat, and the acidity’s a little tart, but there’s certainly an exceptional grand cru finish – compelling in complexity and length – smokey, sour cherry and cream. Tons of interest, but the wine just seems a little disjointed. The vacuvined ‘third’ was more joined-up on day two, seeming a fatter and more intense. If the wine had shown the same on day 2 as day 1 I would have been concerned about the future, in fact I still might open up another this time next year.

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