Tasted in Chablis with Dylan Camus, 28 January 2022.
Domaine Christophe Camu
1 avenue de la Liberté
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 12 50
More Reports with Domaine Christophe Camu
Dylan on 2021:
“We haven’t made too bad a year in terms of volume – we have more acidity than previous vintages but we think we have something quite interesting. ”
Dylan on 2020:
“The 2020 vintage was certainly much easier in the vines – practically no frost and easy to work. We work with nature and sometimes it’s a lot more complicated but not in 2020.”
The wines…
There is much to like in the cellar here this year – some accents of pyrazine in some cuvées but never aggressive. There are delicious wines too – though some you should wait for if you are oak-averse.
All cork sealed here:
2020 Dylan Camus, Irancy Les Grenouillères
Second vintage – not a massive rendement but that’s been the new normal for a while. Again with all the whole-clusters for this. Bottled a couple of months – 25% new oak
There’s depth to this but also a fine width of pure – darker-shaded – fruit. Supple, nicely direct, a frame of tannin but virtually no grain. Layers, waves of finishing flavour – almost the essence of cherry-stones at the core. I saw no green notes.
Some slightly new label designs that reflect more the Irancy label:
2020 Chablis
The nose is pure, slightly reductive but also golden – a little like a Fourchaume – super. Mouth-filling, some structural volume. Mouth-watering deliciously – this is absolutely excellent!
2020 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Over 70-year-old vines, with some replacements, were planted by Dylan’s grandfather. These vines in Poinchy between the Côte de Lechets and Beauroy.
More direct and with mineral freshness. Wide, mineral vista – lovely freshness the acidity bringing a fine mouth-watering style to this open and attractive wine. There’s plenty of citrus bitters here – perhaps edging towards green – but the complexity is fine and delicious today.
2020 Chablis Gouttes D’Or
Under Montmains the actual lieu-dit is Côte d’Or which they are not allowed to use – but the cuvée name is close. Clear bottle.
A full nose, slightly reductive. Really mouth-filling and energetic – a little extra green in this too – but I didn’t see it on the nose. Still, it’s just part o the citrus-skin complexity of the vintage. Mineral finish – almost a vibration of flavour
2020 Chablis 1er Côte de Lechets
2 small parcels assembled. This a tank sample – probably later in March for bottling.
A lovely width of freshness – more yellow citrus, slowly accenting with a few green suggestions. Mouth-filling – there’s a freshness and joy to this despite a fine accent of pyrazine. Very tasty…
2020 Chablis 1er Beauroy
The part close to Poinchy. Bottled
Cool and fresh despite a little more ripeness – that’s a very attractive nose. A little gas in this, but this is fine, pure and has lovely energy – mouth-watering with delicious minerality – this I like a lot. Excellent wine!
2020 Chablis 1er Montmains
True Montmains. The Goutte d’Or, this and the grand cru, are the wines with oak elevage here – 50% except for the GC which is 100% – tank sample.
The nose needs a bit more elevage and is slightly reductive too but there’s plenty of energy here. Mouth-filling – I love the combination of structure and size – almost juicy. Extra depth to the flavour too – but wait for this. This could be excellent – it needs a bit more work in elevage.
A small parcel that came from Dylan’s grandparents – roughly 2 barrels – maybe a little more in a normal year. The vines just next to Grenouilles.
Plenty of aromatic volume but the 100% oak elevage is dominating today. Super shape and real presence. Pure, hyper-mineral, never hard or austere – but you will have to wait for the barrel to fade. I wouldn’t touch one for 5 years – and then only as a test! The material here gives the potential for a grand vin!
And for the fun – but what fun!
Will make a first small bottling of this ‘for the loudest customers’ in 2 weeks
This is beautifully perfumed and direct with an acidulated style to the citrus fruit – really inviting. More direct, certainly more acidity – a sherbet style to this flavour that reminds me of Montagny – but more direct and with more overt mineral support. That’s ultra-moreish – the combination of this and a warm summer terrace – people might forget that they need to eat, or later have the capacity to eat. Bravo!