Tasted in Beine with Florent Dauvissat, 04 January 2022.
Domaine Agnes et Didier Dauvissat
Chemin de Beauroy
89800 Beine
Tel: + 33 3 86 42 46 40
www.domainedauvissat.fr
More reports with Domaine Agnès et Didier Dauvissat
Florent on 2021:
“In 2021 a bit less than 2-3rds is lost. But I can say that the quality is a nice surprise…”
Florent on 2020:
“We had coulure, dryness, lots of small things that added up to a larger loss – we harvested good stuff but with 20% lower volume though. The first harvest for us of our new plantings for crémant and pinot noir. Our first parcel of Chablis harvested was 29 August in Courgis – though that was a week after the harvest for the crémant. We finished with the pinot…”
The wines…
Very good as always – and as always, this is one of the top addresses for Petit Chablis.
Corks for the 1er crus, DIAM equivalents for PC and Chablis – non-oaked. ‘The lower price of the synthetics have allowed us to spend more on higher-quality corks for the other wines.’
An assembly of parcels, in the plateau of Beines, near Vauligneau and above the grand crus..
A punchy, bright nose – a little green herb – but a good invitation. Incisive, vibrant – nicely mineral and with a great PC finish – maybe even a little mint-leaf in here – always one of the best producers and it’s the same in 2020 – bravo!
2020 Chablis Les Brêches de Fyé
5.5 ha of Chablis in total – this representing 3 of those hectares in Fyé, almost a continuation of Blanchots, just below the plateau of Petit Chablis – the lieu-dit is les Brechins, this name pre-dates that.
Quite a tighter nose but one that seems to be very clean and tidy. Supple, wide, some herby greens again, slightly mint-leaf is the impression. Intense and finely concentrated finishing – I like this – hopefully, no extra greens in the form of pyrazines will show itself as it ages…
2020 Chablis 1er Beauroy
2 hectares of vines in a single parcel in Côte de Savant. This with cork (Trescasses) the previous with DIAM
A vertical nose – narrow but with both deep and high tines – fine clarity of aroma with super depth. Intense starting, incisive – great acidity. This needs a little time to settle – but the energy and juicy delivery of flavour impress. No mint this time!
2020 Chablis 1er Beauroy Eléve en Fût de Chêne
This the longer elevage cuvée with 100% barrel elevage. This not yet bottled – the others have all been done for a few months…
A narrower and silkier nose – an accent of spice – but a faint one. Vibrant – wide – more controlled but still full of energy – this will be a great comparison in 5 years as the previous wine is almost too incisive today – this the calmer but still finely balanced brother. Let’s see what time brings.
How about a look at a 2018 or two?
2018 Chablis Les Petits Vignerons
Hand harvested, a parcel in Courgis – 0.5 ha near Chaume de Talvat – 500-l barrels for vinification and the rest in tank – usually 12 months elevage. Not made in 2019 as they didn’t have enough for the tank size that was available – and for the same reason none in 2020 or 2021….
A tighter nose with more depth – but quite some aromatic width in that depth. This is mobile, mouth-filling and has a growing intensity – really a good agrume style to these flavours with finishing bitters from the citrus skins. That’s a lovely wine.
2018 Chablis 1er Beauroy Eléve en Fût de Chêne
This the cuvée with all barrel elevage – only 3 demi-muids for the whole cuvée.
A narrower but also slightly reductive and more saline nose – very Chablis. Driving, direct, intenser, not overtly woody. A width of growing intensity flavour, accented with barrel spice but never with creamy or vanilla notes. A wine that will reward two or three years of patience. The 2018s are beginning to show better and better…
And to finish, something completely different:
2020 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
The label for this is not yet created. A small parcel in the direction of the autoroute… This is the first harvest from young vines – and, due to the frost, there is none in 2021!
Plenty of colour. Broad, airy, herby – a little pyrazine style gentian flowers. Mouth-filling – airy, lots of gentian-style flowers rather than starkly of pyrazine – it’s actually very attractive – I’d go as far as to say delicious – the elevage has 6 months in barrel – but you really won’t note that. Florent stops the barrel-elevage the moment he considers that the structure, the astringency, of the barrel starts to show.