The first wine whose nose is a little tight. Round with plenty of structure – actually quite mineral. Faint hints of coconut on a very long finish. Far from ‘facile’ Charmes…
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Vougeraie
2009 Vougeraie Musigny
Only 700 bottles of this, I’m lucky because a few samples are hand as it’s just being bottled – otherwise it’s not opened. For the first time there are a few stems retained in this. This is also a little tight but shows perfect red berry fruit. Despite what’s gone before, here is another level of concentration and hot on its heel, intensity too. Balanced and cushioned yet somehow everything registers a notch higher than the other wines – I wonder how they do that…(!)
2009 Vougeraie Vougeot Clos de la Prieuré Blanc
2009 Vougeraie Vougeot Clos Blanc de Vougeot
2009 Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
2009 Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
Cuvée en foule. The nose seems to offer up chalk and minerals – no sauvage. Fuller and more tannic than the basic cuvée there definitely seems more material in the glass. Again there is a peak of flavour in the mid-palate but this time with much more complexity. A bigger difference in the two wines in 09 versus 08.
2009 Vougeraie Vougeot Les Cras
Like the ‘en foule’ this has a little musk on the nose too., and it’s a very wide and interesting nose – it just seems to get better and better – I find something of the quality of a Musigny here – honestly! Lots of flavour and some complexity; it has the sweetness of the vintage but remains poised. Lovely, lovely wine.
2009 Vougeraie Corton Clos du Roi
Interesting fruit that keeps your nose to the glass, slowly growing higher tones too – captivating. More material but less focus versus the 08 is my instant impression. Very good concentration though perhaps like a twist more of acidity – yet the flavours seem mouth-watering enough and are certainly long.