Deep colour. The nose is an impressively wide and sweet affair tempered by a faintly spicy and understated vanilla, slowly it releases flashes of red and black fruits. In the mouth it’s less sweet than the nose suggests, even just a little tart. The tannin is well textured but perhaps in the finish is just a little bitter. Understated acidity still leaves your mouth watering and there’s reasonable length too. This wine seems to have a miss-match of parts, but might be worth a bottle or two in the cellar.
Varoilles
2003 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée
At first glance and sniff, this looks and smells like a 2003 – blind tasting to that level of accuracy need hold no fears! Medium-plus cherry-red with not a hint of lightening or ruby colour. The nose starts very ripe with plenty of powdery red fruit, but time opens quite a distinct coffee note and eventually a very well defined and intense red cherry/cranberry impression. In the mouth this is concentrated, soft, intense with a good burst of fruit on the mid-palate – it’s a very ‘worthy’ 1er Cru – the finish is quite long and the only part that hints of some oak. The tannins are very well covered. This is a great success for the vintage, and even if you are just a little agnostic about the character of 2003, I think you will find plenty of fun here – and that’s not to say there is no longer-term serious side to this well-priced wine.
2003 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
Deep colour. The starts with a blast of camphor/menthol, slowly turns to cedar and opens out with high-toned red berry fruit and just a hint of volatility – eventually widens – becomes super. The first mouthful leaves little impression, save for a lovely penetrating length and a certain smoothness. Linear fruit, slightly grainy tannin and acidity that is just a trace tart. If the palate develops as well as the nose, this is on the buy list.
2003 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
Deep colour. The starts with a blast of camphor/menthol, slowly turns to cedar and opens out with high-toned red berry fruit and just a hint of volatility – eventually widens – becomes super. The first mouthful leaves little impression, save for a lovely penetrating length and a certain smoothness. Linear fruit, slightly grainy tannin and acidity that is just a trace tart. If the palate develops as well as the nose, this is on the buy list.