Thomas-Moillard

1998 Thomas-Moillard Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

A rather unnattractively muddy, if deep mahogany red colour. The nose is high-toned but the fruit seems a little cooked in profile, wide but unappealing in a stewed tea kind of way. The tannin rather sticks out and I suppose that this was one of those hideously astringent 98’s in it’s first couple of years, but the tannins have moderated – if only a little. The acidity is quite clean and good and eventually you find the one redeeming feature of the wine; nice fruit in the finish with a creamy edge and an understated length. Only two more lie in the cellar, fortunately, and I expect that in the normal Thomas-Moillard style they won’t be close to mature for at least another 10 years. I think they will always be rather uncouth and lacking style. Shame, as the starting material hints of much more potential. It’s very rare that I ‘waste’ wine, but this bottle was poured down the sink on day 2…

1996 Thomas-Moillard Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Deep ruby, lightens a little at the rim. The nose shows a blast of fruit – more plum than cherry. There’s real depth, more than many from this vineyard, but perhaps not the width or expanse (if you prefer) of the best. The palate has perfect acidity and smooth but sneaky tannin that creeps up on you. There’s good intensity to the fruit, but it’s perhaps a little one dimensional – same with the finish. An enjoyable wine – I enjoyed it to the last drop – but it’s missing a little of what Malconsorts can offer, or at least at this obviously young age it is.

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