Medium-plus colour. With any volume of wine in the glass, the aromas tend towards leafy, clean notes over a tighter, darker depth. As the glass drains the aromas first add a little raisined fruit before a very, very pretty red fruit comes centre-stage – really impressive. Slightly forward acidity – the 1996 vernacular – and slightly metallic flavours – the young Corton vernacular. The tannin builds as you roll the wine around your mouth – this is very much a 12-year-old youngster. There’s plenty of mid-palate depth that hints toward earthy flavours, but it remains reasonably primary. There’s almost ‘enjoyment’ here, but wait another 2-3 years before returning!
Thomas-Moillard
1996 Thomas-Moillard Corton Clos du Roi
A medium-plus ruby-red core. The nose is about iron and soft, sweet, musky notes topped with fainter blackberry. Linear and intense, this is classic 1996 with mouth-watering acidity and a faint but lingering length. It’s a very clean, concentrated and tidy wine that’s showing little in the way of development and will probably require at least another 5 years to turn a little friendly…
1996 Thomas-Moillard Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts
Deep ruby, lightens a little at the rim. The nose shows a blast of fruit – more plum than cherry. There’s real depth, more than many from this vineyard, but perhaps not the width or expanse (if you prefer) of the best. The palate has perfect acidity and smooth but sneaky tannin that creeps up on you. There’s good intensity to the fruit, but it’s perhaps a little one dimensional – same with the finish. An enjoyable wine – I enjoyed it to the last drop – but it’s missing a little of what Malconsorts can offer, or at least at this obviously young age it is.