Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose slowly opens over about 25 minutes, hints of spice, warm dark fruit and a slightly strange mineral/coal note. Over the tongue, it’s balanced and quite intense, some grain still from the tannin, but that strange aroma is also their as a flavour too. Previous bottles were fine so perhaps this strange flavour is a one-off – it was anyway more of a background note on day two.

Medium-plus colour – only the faintest traces of cherry-red still remain. The nose is absolutely splendid; forward, very wide, mineral, a little feral, hints of coffee, spice and spruce – it could only come from Vosne, and though it misses a touch of decorum, such is the complexity that you would expect (blind) that it was a very good grand cru. The bar is now set and I’m judging this wine to grand cru standards: The palate starts with a blast, wide interesting and complex – there’s little fat. It slowly fades rather than expands. Under their blanket of fruit the tannins are a little grainy and the finish is in the ‘good but great’ category. This is an excellent 1er cru but misses a little mid-palate density and length for a truly fine grand cru. All the same, this is open for business and is a very ‘giving’ wine that brims with complexity and interest – if not elegance. Highly recommended…