Well the cork is in great shape; long, flexible and not a hint of seepage. Medium garnet red. The nose is a little dense – there’s depth certainly, but it’s a little cooked and monolithic – not really the elegance or complexity of Musigny to start with, but slowly a more penetrating and pure red fruit nose comes centre-stage – after 2 hours it’s quite engaging. There is plenty of balance, understated slightly astringent tannin and a finishing note that is mineral with a hint of tannic bitterness – well one thing’s for sure; this is far from a mature wine. In the end I drank it whilst admiring certain aspects of it but without ever warming to it. The flavours are certainly more mineral than fruit influenced and it’s far from a thing of beauty right now – actually it’s still an ugly duckling – but if I had a second bottle in such good condition I wouldn’t open it for at least another 5 years.

Opened 2 yours before the first pour. Medium colour – ruby but still with cherry-red accents. The nose is deeper and darker than that of the Bonnes-Mares, but less wide. Slowly in the glass the aromas gain width and dimension – I would say very fine. In the mouth my first impression is that it’s a little hard and tight; in tandem with the nose it slowly unwinds, softens and adds width. Another wine where the tannin hardly warrants a mention, though the quality of the wide and creamy finish was streets ahead of the Bonnes-Mares. In this context it was a fine wine, but one that didn’t ‘wow’.

The colour is medium-plus red, but halfway between ruby and cherry – already starting to lose some that youthfull robe. The nose starts deep and complex with a strong cedar note at the top, and all-spice below. It takes quite some time to open out into a more fruit dimension – mainly a redcurrant note that develops a baked tart effect. The palate has perfect texture – ultra-smooth – and excellent acidity. Really exceptional length, though currently edged with some faintly bitter oak tannin. Interestingly the cedar of the nose is mirrored on the palate. Just a little more intense than the Echezeaux, but I find that cedar note intrusive. Lots of positive aspects, but a wine that is less ‘together’ than the Mugneret-Gibourg today. Take an overnight rest in the refridgerator and the last glass has a more floral nose and the palate is more ‘together’ – still a little cedar though. 5 more lay in the cellar for the long-term.

Splash decanted 15 minutes before drinking. Medium cherry/ruby red – the colour’s a little intermediate, but not much fading. The nose starts a little ‘solid’ plenty of ashy oak taking at least an hour to release the creamy red fruit – it’s good but not great. The palate is medium intensity with a spectacular finish, creamy and long, long, long. Most likely serves me right for opening at this age but I would have liked something to be happening in the mid-palate… Lovely balance – elegance over power, nice unobtrusive tannin and a real peacock’s tail of a finish, but this left me looking for just that bit extra. Excellent but as said, not yet great…

Medium red with brick highlights. The nose is an unusual, but not unpleasant, mixture of oxtail soup (!) and stewed rhubarb. Some sweetness and fruit but slightly outweighed by the punchy acidity and tannins. With food the tables are turned and all falls into place. There’s no lack of fruit and this wine exhibits a simply fantastic length. 2-3 minutes and it’s still going. Excellent, head and shoulders above any other 1994 I’ve tasted.

There were apparently 2 cuvées from this vintage chez Mugnier, this one, and a veilles vignes; I assume the V.V. is a little more interesting. Beautiful medium-full ruby colour, only a little browner at the edge. The nose starts very deep, due to a still obvious oak treatment, creamy with vanilla. There are also high raspberry and kirsch tones plus tones of tea. The palate has good acidity, silky tannins which are almost hidden at the start but become less controlled as you progress into the finish. You will find great depth of fruit, shading towards the red spectrum and a long finish which is perceptibly touched by vanilla. A very fine wine then but for me tinged a sense of disappointment. Musigny from a top producer – which Mugnier is, should be magic experience and frankly this wine doesn’t come close to the experience of Thomas-Moillards Romanée Saint-Vivant of the same year.