Has a decent, dark colour. The nose is dark-fruit shaded and shows the village spicyness. In the mouth it has lost the fat and impact of it’s youth – it’s narrower and more taught. There is certainly some development of mid-palate complexity and a decent length. To drink today it’s quite okay, but reward is at least 7 or 8 years away.

In bottle for a month from a mix of 70 and 25 year-old vines. Lovely, pure, fruit-driven aromas that seem almost silky. In the mouth there’s super taxture and is one of those rare villages wines that show gras (or fat). Lovely balance and concentration that follows beautifully into the finish. Excellent villages.

Higher-toned thatn the aromas of the two 07’s, with slightly redder fruit than the 07 Echézeaux. A little more structure, plenty of fine tannin, but equally good fruit. This seems more guarded or tighter but it’s clearly very good.

Medium colour. The nose is just a little alcoholic at the top over pretty, spicy red cherry and occasional wafts of coffee. Lovely texture but at this age the ‘puppy-fat’ has faded and the acidity is now more to the fore – the overall effect is now ‘only just ripe’. Cool red, tart cherry-fruit remains at the core and the finish is quite long. Just a little gawky now, but there are a few in the cellar for another day.

Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is wide with a dense, central core of fruit. The palate has just a little more acidity than most – closer in impression to the 2004’s. From a textural perspective this is the winner of this group, it is wonderfully smooth, particularly the discreet tannin. There’s not the punch of fruit you get in the Bichot, nor the masculine density of the Perrot-Minot – in this respect it is closer to the (still lighter) Méo. Medium-plus length that occasionally shows a little extra creamy depth. This is a wine to wallow in, not to be ‘impressed’ by – that’s a compliment!

Medium-plus cherry-red. High-toned, dense red fruit. The palate is sweet, concentrated and shows lovely acidity, acidity that pushes the vanilla-tinged finish ever longer. It’s a wide rather than deep expression and is a first-class villages.

Medium cherry red. Again a quite high-toned nose with dense red fruit. The palate is a world away from the 2002, elegantly proportioned but much more austere and less sweet. Excellent balance, fine tannin and a slightly dry finish – one to leave while you’re raiding the 2002’s!

I don’t know, maybe it was the 4 days of furniture moving, or then again perhaps it was the two weeks of shiraz, malbec and merlot etc., but boy did this wine sing. Straight from the cellar (14°C), A lovely medium blood-red colour – just fading a little to the rim. The nose has spicy tertiary notes that surround a centre of currant, coffee, tobacco and high toned fruits. In the mouth there’s perfect harmony – lingering acidity and only just fading drying tannins. The fruit has a compelling raspberry/strawberry complexion. Not very fat, but oh so fresh – really lovely – a village wine that transcends its appelation and the notion of numerical scores. I’d say this is only just entering its drinking window – with at least 10 years ahead to keep enjoying.