Has a decent, dark colour. The nose is dark-fruit shaded and shows the village spicyness. In the mouth it has lost the fat and impact of it’s youth – it’s narrower and more taught. There is certainly some development of mid-palate complexity and a decent length. To drink today it’s quite okay, but reward is at least 7 or 8 years away.

Medium colour. The nose is just a little alcoholic at the top over pretty, spicy red cherry and occasional wafts of coffee. Lovely texture but at this age the ‘puppy-fat’ has faded and the acidity is now more to the fore – the overall effect is now ‘only just ripe’. Cool red, tart cherry-fruit remains at the core and the finish is quite long. Just a little gawky now, but there are a few in the cellar for another day.

Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is wide with a dense, central core of fruit. The palate has just a little more acidity than most – closer in impression to the 2004’s. From a textural perspective this is the winner of this group, it is wonderfully smooth, particularly the discreet tannin. There’s not the punch of fruit you get in the Bichot, nor the masculine density of the Perrot-Minot – in this respect it is closer to the (still lighter) Méo. Medium-plus length that occasionally shows a little extra creamy depth. This is a wine to wallow in, not to be ‘impressed’ by – that’s a compliment!

Medium cherry red. Again a quite high-toned nose with dense red fruit. The palate is a world away from the 2002, elegantly proportioned but much more austere and less sweet. Excellent balance, fine tannin and a slightly dry finish – one to leave while you’re raiding the 2002’s!