Mortet Denis

1998 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour. Whilst the majority of what the nose offers up, neatly fits the vernacular established by the other wines, there is just an extra edge of oak toast – unique to this vintage – but the wine has eaten it up sufficiently that there is no impression of asyness. I find a lot of carbon dioxide on the palate – initially it’s very hard to judge. Plenty of swirling slowly releases the wine within; on entry the fruit has a nice red edge and a good, dark and spicy length. As the gas fades, so the dimension on the mid-palate becomes ever-more expressive and impressive – really lovely, and I would say better than the 1999!

1998 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

The colour is quite deep, but showing plenty of age with a little mahogany cast. The nose is complex with high and low tones; ash, coconut, deeper faintly reductive notes and some sweetness of fruit at its core. Excellent acidity though with a late metallic impression. Decent length, resolved tannin and some reasonable sweet fruit. Interesting and more balanced than the the last time out, less marked by the oak, though the base is still obvious.apparently thickens with concentration. If you’re immune to the 2004 cedar it’s a buy.

1998 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose still shows plenty of woodsmoke and a trace of ash – time in the glass brings higher tones and fainter red fruits to fill the scene. Very good texture with a real extra dimension of creamy black fruit on the mid-palate and into a finish that still shows a little bitter oak. The oak is far from dominant on the palate but is still a loud voice. The tannins remain grainy and a little astringent. For my taste the oak is one or two notches too high – still.

1998 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose starts with lots of char effects and cigarette ash – not particularly appealing. Given time (needs 2 hours) the fruit becomes purer and coffee edged – plums and macerated red cherry. Very nicely textured with good acidity and high-toned fruit, the tannins have some grain if you chew long enough. The finish has an edge of licorice with medium-plus length for the cru. Thirty minutes of air is all that’s needed for this to show very well.

1998 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Medium-plus colour, still quite primary. The nose has spicy, meaty black fruit with a touch of licorice. The palate shows a similarly black aspect, nice acidity and smooth tannins. The finish is surprisingly long with a hint of earthy, minerally cream. An obvious winemaking signature at work, but a tasty wine all the same.

1998 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Frankly I’m amazed! This wine was just so full of toasty oak – of which I’m not enamoured – when released, that it took close to 36 hours to reach the limits of my drinkability. Today you’d never know, the toast is in the background and there’s a faint, sweet, coffee tinged, black skinned fruit note in its place. The colour is a deep cherry red, no fading or browning. The palate has real concentration, good acidity and very well mannered tannins. The wine’s currently showing in a subdued and primary way. One to leave – fortunately, I’ve 10 more to go.

1998 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin

By on November 30, 2002 #asides

Dark garnet/purple. Very toasty oak nose (oh dear!) – I can’t really get past this. Soft and supple in the mouth, despite being quite dense. Straight from the bottle this is deeply disappointing to me, there seems to be balance of acidity and tannin, apparently with some fruit too, but I can’t get at it for the wood. One hour (of occasional swirling) later, the nose is starting to exhibit the creaminess of French oak – more wood, but at least it’s becoming more subtle! I’m also starting to pick up black cherry. As we move on to the 3 hour mark, there is a transition through ‘real toast’ smells to something much more opulent and interesting. So after 24 hours under vacuvin we are starting to get somewhere; the oak is just in the background now, black cherry and even blackcurrant, a little spice and the smell of soil. Palate is still nice and supple, but the acidity seems a bit more aggressive. Very long creamy oak finish. This wine has excellent potential, though I won’t try another for at least 3 years, and it’s likely I’ll still have to decant a couple of hours before consuming.

1998 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin En Motrot

By on November 30, 2002 #asides

Dark garnet/purple, subtly darker than the the base villages wine. Again toasty oak on the nose but a little less pronounced with black cherries in the mix. The acidity is more pronounced than the above, with black cherry again on the finish. After an hour of swirling (as above) the toasty oak seems more persistent than on the ‘basic’ G-C, and is ‘lighter’ in the mouth. After 3 hours we have lost most of the ‘toast’ and have a more silky mouthfeel than the ‘basic’. Okay, moving on 24 hours (under vacuvin) the oak has not been subdued quite to the same extent as the ‘basic’ but is now (to me) ‘acceptable’. The nose has less blackcurrant aspect than the ‘basic’, otherwise it seems a little more concentrated with some liquorice hints. The palate is smoother with better integration of the acid. The finish is long and mainly fruit driven rather than creamy oak. Now it’s really an excellent wine. I don’t have any more of these, though would wait a similar time to re-test if I had.

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