A négoce wine. The last time I had this there was a strong vintage character and here it is today too – a little stronger than the Perrot-Minot, let’s say at a 7/10 intensity. In the mouth there seems to be both a good balance and good freshness, in particular there seems to be a very engaging mid-palate energy and a creamy extra dimension to the fruit. That part is very impressive, but it’s vintage character shows all the way to the finish…

Medium-plus colour. Deep, rich, dark red fruit aromas – almost cordial. Intense, quite some blocky extract. There’s a linear intensity through the centre of this wine – it doesn’t narrow or widen, it goes like a train. The flavour has some of the dark mineral flavour of the Jadots, it’s also very long. Today this is a little tight, austere and far from seamless but it is far from lacking material. Return in 10 years.

There’s plenty of 2004 about this nose but there’s also good, mainly high-toned red fruit too – it’s very pretty. Plenty of tannin that shows some astringency but a good length – a bit of 04 flavour too. This is currently drinking, but compromised.