This has medium, medium-plus colour – relatively dark and young looking for a 10 year-old. The nose is showing some maturity with blood, iron, graphite – rare Chateaubriand. With time, there are faint oxidised notes which rather disconcertingly gives me the the overall impression that it smells more like Chianti than Beaune, but that’s short-lived, additional time builds a slightly musky base – seems more like burgundy now! Good acidity and a decent base of grainy, almost velvety tannin that appears in the mid-palate – hardly any astringency now. The fruit has a dark-red sweet-sour presence, but is well (sweet-sour) balanced. Medium length. I would say that this is approaching its plateau of maturity – another couple of years should do it – and given its relative power, it should hold there for at at lease a decade…
Jadot Louis
1998 Jadot Louis Corton-Charlemagne
The first pour – ooh quite light colour – but the more you pour, it seems to get darker much faster than expected. The end colour is similar to the 98 Boillot. The nose starts with an unusual ‘warm wool’ aroma, perhaps a little oaky too – but not a hint of oxidation. The wool fades to leave width wafts of ripe fruit – not that much maturity, but the last drops almost have that volatile edge of a redcurranty red-wine. In the mouth, it has intensity, but keep it on your tongue and it bursts with interest and complexity. Very good length. Excellent!
1998 Jadot Louis Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze
Medium, medium-plus ruby-red – no obvious age. The nose on first pour is reticent; a little bramble fruit but not much else. Without ever becoming effusive, the nose builds a core of dark fruit, slowly releasing finer red-fruit notes and even gives a hint of gingerbread. In the mouth it has excellent freshness, tempered by concentration and width without apparent weight. Just a faint fatness covers tannin that still offers a slight astringency. The length is impressive though hardly ‘impactful’. I left the wine for another hour. On return the wine is more open, mineral and showing much more depth of dark fruit on the nose. In the mouth there seems to be more concentration and intensity – I actually left the bottle in the refrigerator as the room was very warm – I think it made all the difference. It’s more together, more intense and the dark flavours infuse the tongue. I was wavering at first, but keep this wine below 18°C and you well get the return for your outlay. Impressive, yet it will be better in 5-10!
1998 Jadot Louis Puligny-Montrachet
1998 Jadot Louis Pommard
(From a half bottle) Deep ruby still with a little cherry at the rim. The nose is predominantly sweet red fruit, perhaps just a trace of a meaty note too. The palate is also sweet with good tannins that started a little rustic but softened with air. There’s no astringency to the palate, just balanced concentration and good acidity that lifts the finish slightly. A moreish wine that was done all too quickly. Good villages.
1998 Jadot Louis Beaune
A deep ruby core with just a trace of amber towards the rim. The nose is meaty and at the same time high toned – latent traces of oak too. A sweet palate, though the svelte tannins show in quite a dry fashion they are quite in balance. A medium length, tasty and pleasing wine. Like most of Jadot’s wines this will benefit from further storage, but an hour in a decanter is all you need with this one.
1998 Jadot Louis Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques
I enjoyed this lots when released (November 2000), but frankly it’s a little disappointing now. Medium ruby red already showing some development and fading to the rim. A strawberry pie nose with deeper red cherry behind. Some fat with slightly prickly acidity and dusty, slightly drying tannins. Perhaps this is a dumb phase, there’s a little tertiary development, but it’s showing in a lacklustre way and is prematurely aged vs the ’98 Jadot village Beaune that has shared the same shelf for the last 3+ years.
1998 Jadot Louis Monthelie
Medium-plus cherry red. Nose is very black – cherry and blackberry – and becomes sweeter with time in the glass. Fresh palate with forward tannins that are a little on the grainy side. Slightly rustic today, but there’s plenty of fruit concentration to merit leaving the bottles another year or two. Almost good.