Deep colour. One sniff of the nose and I’m smiling; there are the lanolin aromas of an even older wine, and perhaps the merest suggestion of something oxidativebut it’s an interesting complexity – no more – so no complaints. Good acidity and nice intensity too – actually the flavour is very long too. There isn’t the seemless, smooth-ness of a very good vintage but this is a very nice drink. I don’t recommend the odds of taking a replacement bottle, but I’ll happily accept what this one offers.

Medium yellow, looks quite young. The nose is lovely – textbook Charlemagne – wide, deep and dense with hints of agrumes against white blossom. Starts with a punch a grows even more in the mouth before slowly fading. Almost good acidity with good purity and intensity from the fruit. I’d have preferred a touch more sweetness, but this wine should now be left for is more savoury future. A good Charlemagne.