A wide, slightly diffuse, earthy, mineral nose with fruit shaded to the red. Some reasonably fresh notes that overlay a dense, tight core – almost separated from the rest of the wine – comes together more in the glass. Some grainy tannin and a reasonably long finish. This is almost good – not as dense but fresher and more interesting than his Richebourg in this vintage.
Medium-plus core of garnet red. The nose starts wide, slightly unfocused with deep and brooding fruit and a cedar note that’s reminiscent of many a 2004, slowly a little meat and glimpses of red fruit as the cedar withdraws. Eventually it’s slightly fresher, no cedar, and perhaps a little spiced tea. The initial texture is quite silky though in the mid-palate there is quite some grainy tannin that despite showing a little bitterness seems to help cement the very long finish. The flavours are mineral rather than fruit driven; quite some creamyness underpinning more cedar on the palate, it’s mouthwatering without being overly fresh. The overall effect is a little blurred – like a soft-focus picture. Summarising, there’s plenty of grand cru dimension, some secondary flavours and a structure that would benefit from another 3-5 years storage – but there’s no wow factor here.
Deep ruby-red, fades to mahogany at the rim. The nose is forward and feral; coffee and chocolate covered leaves mix with roast meat. This is a surprisingly subtle wine, the concentration quickly creeping up on you into the mid-palate – and good concentration it is – but disappearing way-too fast in the finish. Furry, velvety tannins that are well-balanced to the rest of the wine. In isolation, not bad, if rather anonymous, but this was drunk with Mortet’s ’98 villages Gevrey, and on this day, everyone preferred the Mortet…
Medium-plus ruby with a brick rim. Slightly subdued nose which is sweet and primary with high toned red berry fruit, perhaps some blueberry too. Excellent red and black cherry fruit extract on the faintly oaky palate. The dry tannins are still evident – though not rough. This is currently a little austere, but a wine with a very sneaky, creamy length. Despite the lovely fruit, this wine is certainly less dense than the previous two, very fine though – I’d say this is nowhere near ready and would suggest waiting another 3-4 years before trying again.
Medium/medium-plus ruby colour but quite a lot of development – looks older than many others here. The nose is of caramel, unusually a trace of spicy cedar and high toned raspberry and black cherry. The palate shows creamy raspberry and redcurrant against nice acidity and very astringent medium tannins – they’re quite smooth though. This is, perhaps, the most obviously young wine of all these tested and definitely should be left for at least 3 or 4 more years. Not a charmer today, but there’s plenty of potential.
A beautiful ruby colour when it catches the sun. Roasted raspberry nose, just a trace of spice too. Neither the concentration nor tannin of Grivot’s 1995 VR Bossières, but this is very smooth with medium concentrated fruit. The palate was also very dry – but became more friendly with time. Almost good today, but I think much better in 2 or 3 years time.
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