Medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little, inky and earthy with plenty of background reduction – the reduction is a minor flavour component too – it neads to aerate a little, so I decant. An hour later and there’s a higher-toned red fruit note, faint alcohol too but the reduction is gone. The last drops have a lovely redcurrant lift. Decent impact, perhaps a little monolithic like some other Fourrier 04s, but the lingering flavours and the overall balance are very good. I don’t discern any vintage character, but I have the impression I’d probably rather drink a majority now than leave them all in the cellar.

Vines from 1928. Medium, medium-plus colour. Wide and high-toned with quite floral, complex notes. Well-covered structure, remaining understated until it reaches the mid-palate and on into the finish where there is plenty of fine and complex fruit.

Medium ruby-red. A nose that starts deep and surprisingly oaky given that there’s normally a maximum of 20% in this cellar – but it’s short-lived before fading into redder, layered fruit overlaid by higher toned alcoholic aspects, maybe even an edge of coffee. In the mouth it starts impressively; it’s well balanced, and shows a lovely, succulent, creamy red fruit. Time increases the depth but eventually dulls the excitement just a hint. It’s intense in the mid-palate and you never really think of the tannin before it slowly fades in the finish – still with that creamy edge. Poised, elegant and a first-class villages.

Only medium cherry-red colour. The nose is full of toffee and caramel toppings to the red fruit – surprising considering the modest amount of oak that Jean-Marie uses. Medium bodied, quite elegant palate. Nice acidity and subdued tannin a tasty and quite lacy wine. A little remaining wine stored overnight sadly fell apart – perhaps not a long-term wine then but very lovely on day one.

Deep cherry colour with purple edges. The nose has toasty oak still evident but behind there is a sweet fruit compote, more black than red plus a touch vanilla. Really excellent concentration of fruit on the palate, that seams to keep following the lingering acidity. The tannin is there but in the background. An above average ‘village’ wine from an excellent vintage, also great to drink right now.