The nose doesn’t offer the instant ‘to die for’ gratification of the Cotetidot 86 Clos de Vougeot, but it also far from disappointing; there’s a savoury, slightly saline impression that I assume has its roots in oak – although it’s a little tight, it’s also quite inviting. Given time the nose develops a more earthy depth. Silky, with grand-cru fat, this shows a little of that saline element in the flavour too, coupled to slightly oaky bitterness. The mid-palate just bursts forward with minerality and a selection of dried fruits; sweet currant and fig flavours stain your palate, eventually gaining a faint creaminess. The first of these 86s where I’m not delaying the next pour!

Medium, medium-pale ruby red. A nice, rather aged but still fruity nose edged with a little funk. In the mouth the fruit is okay, but the remnants of the tannin still show an astringent edge – this must have been close to undrinkable in its youth! It’s quite long and it’s a tasty length, but the fruit is way ahead of the tannin in termes of the age curve. I wouldn’t touch another for 5 years and I still think it will be a long way from silky.