Medium ruby-red – I caught myself admiring the late-evening sun as it beautifully reflected through the glass. The nose is not immune to the vintage character; it starts at an encouragingly low level but disappointingly blooms in the glass – maybe to a 6/10 level. Below the mirepoix is a creamy, faintly lactic depth – and depth this wine certainly has. Wide in the mouth, the acidity has a slightly jarring, sharp leading edge – give it an hour of aeration and this mainly but not completely tones down. The texture is very fine and the width and depth are high-class indeed. The length, despite its persistence, currently holds onto some of that character. Today this isn’t a fitting tribute to Philippe, so take any of 99-2003 to toast him – they are all drinking well. I hope that my other bottles of this will come good in another 10 years or so…

Medium ruby-red. The nose has hints of dark, spicy oak and turned earth – as the glass drains there are beautiful flashes of red berries. Perfect freshness and still grainy, though generally background tannins. The flavours make a broad panorama on the tongue and are a mix of red berries and more raisined, lingering notes. Very long. I had the 99 a few months ago, but this seems much better focused and ‘together’ if perhaps not quite as concentrated. A lovely bottle and far from a shame to enjoy now.

Medium-plus colour. The nose is about deep, macerated fruit – and even goes deeper with time in the glass. It’s very pretty indeed and all the while adds faint if not wild complexity. In the mouth the clear first impression is width, aided by faintly grainy tannin across the whole panorama. There is an understated presence and interesting complexity, though the finishing flavours are a tad simple despite their length. A good wine here, but today I shy away from ‘great’ as I didn’t find any real focus or ’spine’ to the wine making it come across as ill-defined/loose in the mid-palate. Give it time, but today I’d rather drink the 99 Leroy Narbantons.

Medium cherry. Nose is more reticent than the preceding wines. Lovely fruit lingering with the tannin. Also long and lovely.

Deep colour. Nose has quite primary small berry fruit. Good acidity and quite grainy tannins. Lovely depth, I wouldn’t suggest trying another for at least 3 years. Very good.