Dugat-Py Bernard

2004 Dugat-Py Bernard Pommard Le Levrière

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

Deep cherry-red. The nose starts quite reduced with sulfur and hints of mushroom – hard to get at the fruit – slowly it warms to give a bright, high-toned beacon of pure red fruit. The palate has a perfectly (oak) upholstered texture, really impressive concentration, good acidity and surprisingly only a mild grain to the tannin. This is quite mineral and shows a long finish, akin to having (I’m assuming!) a piece of coal in your mouth. From the mid-palate onwards this is much more impressive than the Coche. Very impressive.

2004 Dugat-Py Bernard Bourgogne

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is rather excellent – concentrated red fruit that is edged with a green note – but this green is more about malo than than a lack of ripeness. The palate is racy and interesting with good but not great concentration – perhaps not even at a villages level (with price comes a level of expectation) – the acidity is just a little sharp in the finish. A wonderful nose and an okay wine; I think you can buy better at the price, hence the criticism, but as a ‘simple’ bourgogne this is wonderful!

2004 Dugat-Py Bernard Bourgogne Cuvée Halinard

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose shows lots of oaky funk – this needs at least 2 hours to fade; afterwards there is a strong resemblance to the basic bourgogne – lovely red, slightly dried fruit set against a greenish malo background. The palate is more serious and concentrated vs the basic with a considerable increase to the length. Now we have a wine that definitely competes with decent village wines, but factoring in the price I’m a little unsure of the ‘value’, but anyway, this (in isolation) is a very good wine.

2004 Dugat-Py Bernard Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Despite 75% whole bunch fermentation this is a deep cherry-red colour. The nose shouts aggressively of funk, reduction, sulfur and oak – nothing else – two hours are insufficient to make an iota of difference. If you leave the bottle (sans cork) upright in a ‘eurocave’ for 36 hours you will end up with something that actually smells of wine; dense but pure red fruit – I get the impression that you might need a week to see any oxidation! But why leave in a eurocave for 36 hours? Easy, what the funk might hide on the nose is there for all to see on the palate – cork taint. Now that’s a big shame (at least it wasn’t his Chambertin!) because there is concentration and a really exectutive texture – the tannins are so fine despite what I assume to be significant extraction. Ignoring the taint, this is mightily impressive wine though if you want to drink now I suggest early preparation – 8 hours in a decanter with lots of air would be my starting point or, better still, opening the night before and leaving the open bottle to overnight in the fridge.

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