It needs some swirling to lift a little reduction. Dense fruit, but much tighter than the preceding Morey. Instantly this is from a different category; it starts narrow but widens, showing a super cream-framed depth. Long, mouth-watering and very, very successful.

True Charmes. The wide and comforting nose is ripe and rather plush – lovely cherry fruit. Density, concentration and lots of dimension – chew and you’ll find even more. Understated acidity, yet there’s some cream-wrapped minerality too. An excellent Charmes.