Deep colour and still very-much cherry-red. The nose starts very tight, slowly adding weight to provide primary cherry fruit with a faint edge of oak toast. A couple of hours after opening there is a very pleasant and truly Volnay impression. Crushing intensity and powerful, velvety, tannins that are 90% covered by the fruit. Good acidity. This is a higher-toned, less obviously sweet rendition of Volnay that, despite it’s concentration, is a little less ‘burly’ than most others, still some oak too. An hour after opening, there’s even an element of friendliness! Very good length, though not quite in the vein of the Clos des Ducs. Certainly the wine that will require longest in the cellar, given how young a recent 1990 tasted, I see no reason to consider drinking this before 2015.