Comte Liger-Belair

2004 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée La Colombière

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-pale colour. Aromatically more impressive than you expect from the colour, deep with a faint edge of coffee – only turning redder and finer with a little tobacco and spice as you slowly drain the glass – no green notes. Light but intense in the mouth – it’s the slightly bright acidity that adds to the apparent intensity. Red berry fruit that slowly fades, good, understated velvet tannins. It’s precocious though quite well balanced, I’d be tempted to drink this younger rather than older. Tasty.

2004 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée La Colombière

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, Medium-pale colour. Aromatically more impressive than you expect from the colour, deep with a faint edge of coffee – only turning redder and finer with a little tobacco and spice as you slowly drain the glass – no green notes. Light but intense in the mouth – it’s the slightly bright acidity that adds to the apparent intensity. Red berry fruit that slowly fades, good, understated velvet tannins. It’s precocious though quite well balanced, I’d be tempted to drink this younger rather than older.

2004 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée La Colombière

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Sweet, slightly powdery red fruit, almost a trace of blood-orange too. Following on from the 05’s in barrel, the house-style of supple, very fine tannins is again evident – lovely mouthfeel – it’s almost as if they are not there until you get a little dryness in the finish. Sweet, forward and interesting.

2004 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

The nose really foxed me at the start, if the wine had been served ‘blind-folded’ as opposed to ‘blind’, I would have guessed gewurztraminer – it just had that slightly heavy, spicy feel. Swirling, warming and a little time in the glass convinced me that this was actually Vosne-Romanée as the red fruit started to shine through and the spice fade into the background. Again there is great texture and higher-toned fruit vs the Colombière and a slowly contracting finish. The acidity is just on a slightly higher level, and helps to show an edge more elegance than the first wine.

2004 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Only two barrels. Louis-Michel really needs to watch this cuvée because the smaller quantity can ferment all-to quickly and produce an edge of harshness. Be keeping tabs and generally bringing more control into the cuvaison he’s sure that the wine is greatly improved. Deeper colour. A quite lovely nose of red berries and cherries, wide, high-toned and perfumed. Extra density vs the village wines, super acidity and again great texture. The finish widens out beautifully. Real class.

2004 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Aux Reignots

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Deeper colour again. A deeper nose to match, with glossy cherry notes that are much closer to black fruit than any other wine. More structure, this is the only wine in the cave that shows a little grain to the tannin. It’s a bold yet rather tight wine, surprisingly Louis-Michel said he opened this about 6 hours earlier and it’s quite open vs then! Again super length – more linear in character than the Chaumes.

2004 Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Spicier, initially less fruit-driven nose, yet each sniff brings new aromas as the nose widens out, but at the centre is a tight core of fruit that never-quite opens out. Velvetty tannin that’s on a higher level than the other wines, yet very well balanced. Super acidity and really impressive length – it’s a more linear length than the ‘panoramic’ 05 in barrel – but it’s a rather haunting diminuendo.

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