Medium colour. The nose is a symphony; there’s still a pure red fruit note towards the top of the range, but there’s a musky undergrowth that cushions it, lovely depth too – you could just sit and sniff this – which is just fine! Actually the palate’s not that bad either, but the nose gives you the impression that there should be more. It’s still pretty good with a (more) linear (than you expect) but still slightly cushioned impression, decent acidity and still just a hint of astringency on the back of your tongue. The fruit has a little sweetness to it, but not in the rather warm, typical 2000 vernacular. Understated, slighly mineral flavours linger in the finish. Not the concentration of yesterday’s 99 villages Chambolle, but complex and interesting.

Medium-pale colour. After the first whiff I chose to double decant – it may have helped a little, but there was still plenty of vintage ‘character’. Behind the mineral, cedary, slightly minty curtain is a pretty red fruit note that becomes ever brighter as the glass drains. In the mouth the ‘character’ is enough that it also intrudes on the flavour – on the other hand it’s sweet, nicely textured and would seem nicely transparent, even a little chocolaty. Drinkable, but hard for me to love this one.

Medium-pale colour. Warm, ripe fruit aromas slowly give way to delicate and very pretty, precise red berry notes with hints of raisin fruit. Detailed, pretty and balanced – red fruit dominated. Quite delicate, but silky and complex – not powerful but great finesse. Very much enjoyed. in fact the longer I sayed with it, the more it reminded me of the ‘85 Jadot…

Medium cherry-red. The nose is much more primary than the Cazetiers, high-toned with powdery-red fruit that hints at an extra depth. In the mouth it’s a fresh complexion with good acidity and nice length – very understated. More obviously young and in need of time than the Cazetiers and, as such, it is today less charming but still a very good and well-made bottle.

From 40+ year old vines. Medium-plus ruby. The nose is everything that the Cazetiers isn’t, it has depth and a faintly caramel tinged red fruit – perhaps a little alcoholic. Really good intensity, good acidity and drying tannin. This is more serious, but also shows much younger as the intesitity is such that it is definitely not a 2000 for drinking now – worth saving.