Medium-plus ruby red. The nose is higher-toned than the Clos de la Roche, more floral with violets and perhaps peony. In terms of texture this is also very like the Clos de la Roche, though the real differentiator is the fruit, it is even more linear – this wine would certainly benefit from another 3-5 years in the cellar – but it drank very well!

I don’t drink Clos Saint Denis enough – this wine confirms it. The nose seems a little oak-heavy to start with but opens gorgeously – very 93 in it’s fruit complexion and slightly dried cranberry effect. The nose gets more ebullient with time. A focused core of fruit wrapped in 1996 acidity. I’m glad I drank many ’96’s young as I still don’t really know if they will soften with age – but I’ve enjoyed many them on the way. Silky palate but I would have preferred a little more length – worth the purchase only for the nose, it’s like a slightly purer version of Dujac’s ’95 Clos de la Roche – gorgeous!