This is a wine that changed so much over 30 minutes that it almost requires two tasting notes. Drunk over a dinner in the Ermtage de Corton. It started medium colour and with quite a stemmy and not particularly attractive nose. The palate was a little lightweight and I didn’t percieve that much balance. Moving on. From about 30 minutes onwards, I had the impression that the colour had deepened (probably a little more wine in the glass!) and the nose was padding out with more red fruit aromas around the core of stems – not ‘gorgeous’ but now quite engaging. The palate had also transformed, delivering more padding and flavour so at the same time easing the acidity. The last drops were quite balanced and those of a very nice wine. I expect Thomas will be recommending that I get a bit more air into his cuvées!

Again there is a floral dimension, but with a deeper scent and darker fruit – it’s very pretty. Silky, very well balanced, flavour growing in the mid-palate before slowly decaying. Higher quality than your average ‘villages’ Volnay.