Medium level of oxidation – almost, but not quite drinkable…

Medium level of oxidation – almost, but not quite drinkable…

Medium-pale colour – certainly looks okay. The nose is wide, showing soft fruit and faint lanolin with an even fainter citrus veil – a faint caramel note eventually escapes the glass. Perfect acidity, a little linear in the mid-palate and a super acid-driven length. Not as ‘giving’ as 3 years ago, but understated excellence, still.

Medium lemon yellow. The nose is fresh and understated, yet offers up many layers with a faintly creamy edge. The palate is concentrated yet also understatedly provides layers and layers of interest – I’m now regretting that only 4 more lie in the cellar. Lovely acidity and length. Wonderful in an understated way.

Drank directly after Bertagna’s Charlemagne, which frankly towered above this Perrières! Pale yellow. The nose is rather tight, giving up a little fresh bread and very faintly minty high-toned fruit. Medium intensity but with a profile that expands into a good finish.. It’s very clean, with lovely acidity, your mouth subtly waters for at least a minute after swallowing. A very lovely wine – in isolation.

Medium lemon yellow. The nose is fresher than the Charmes, perhaps a little sweet lime, but there’s faint butter and a brooding, creamy base below. The palate is concentrated without being over-fat, it’s perfectly balanced with the acidity too. There’s a seamless ride from first impression, to mid-palate, to the achingly long, creamy finish. The wine hasn’t the impressive minerality of the best Perrières I’ve tasted (Roulot’s 2000) but this is a very convincing effort and one-third of the price – I’ve already added a half-dozen to the cellar.