Just a little darker than last week’s 02 Perrières, but frankly nothing more than a medium gold – no alarm bells. The nose is deep, a little exotic and not really hinting of oxidation, more about toffee-edged fruit – not exactly Chablis-esque, but way-ahead of the Perrières. In the mouth it’s also better – but not by much, clearly showing a strong oxidative character. Actually quite drinkable – but tastes like a 20+ year-old wine. I’m not sure where the border is with respect to fair/not fair to complain about oxidised 1er cru Chablis – but I know it’s not 7 and a bit years after bottling…

Pale yellow, indeed still a hind of green. The nose is a little diffuse and sweet. The palate is very fresh – carried along on a wave of tasty acidity, good mouth-watering length. Quite simple but with currently unexpressive concentration. Almost good in itself and very good when taking account of the price.