My last two bottles showed a hint of oxidation, so here’s the last one of six. Medium gold – it seemed lighter on pouring. The nose has no obvious oxidation, rather caramel and toffee over sweet fruit. Soft textured with understated acidity. Versus its youth there’s an understated intensity and equally understated – though long – finish with just a hint of gunflint. Just a youthful wine going through a tight phase. Given the track record in my cellar I won’t be rebuying, but this was a very nice bottle.

Not light colour – at least not when using the previous two as reference. Very ripe, honey on the nose. In the mouth it’s fat and concentrated – no obvious oxidation aromas or flavours – but not the zing, not the painful intensity and not the haunting finish of those first bottles – comment from winemaker friend #2: “you called me round just to taste this?” – ouch.

Deeply coloured for such a young wine, a shimmering gold. The nose has a creamy fruit-salad sense to it, almost brooding. The palate is a Charlemagne tour-de-force with it’s upfront burst of flavour and stunning concentration – it was a challenge to drink the second glass – but I persevered!. Keeping the wine in your mouth brings thoughts of a stream gushing over rock, but if you need a respite and try swallowing you’re in for a shock, it’s like opening the curtains and letting in the sun as the finish unfolds with deep, creamy waves. Best young Charlie I ever tried – as if I haven’t bought enough white wine already…