Berthaut

2004 Berthaut Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium cherry-red. The nose starts with a dark oaky element intertwined with plenty of the 04 cedary green thing – after five minutes you have lost the dark part, it’s even eventually asparagus! In the mouth The fruit is sweet, but it’s really pushed into the background by the slightly mouth-puckering effect of the tannin/acidity. There’s plenty of that cedar thing in the mouth too. It may have a future, but it’s hard to see it.

2005 Berthaut Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Delicate, fragrant and focused, it’s a lovely nose though not what I would guess to be Gevrey. Some fat, this nicely

textured wine again shows an additional creamy edge to the fruit. The tannin is less transparent than the previous

‘Arvelets’, but it’s fine and ripe. Finishes long and fresh. Excellent villages.

2003 Berthaut Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red, still with a cherry-hued rim. The nose is understated, deep and just a little tight. The palate is

concentrated, ripe, sweet and by a hairs-breadth avoids being ‘porty’. The flavour clings to the inside of your mouth with

understated, faintly bitter but relatively fine tannins and little dried fruits as a background – it hangs around quite

long. Sumptuous if not elegant. A pleasant enough 2003.

2002 Berthaut Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Medium cherry-red colour. The nose starts with just a twist of dark and spicy oak. The palate has ebullient acidity, the

classic 2002 grainy tannin and a narrow but quite long finish. The acidity is really a key part of the expansion in the

mid-palate which brings quite some character to the wine. Perhaps not quite 1er cru level of intensity or, today,

complexity, but certainly engagement. Nice wine, even in a 2002 context.

2001 Berthaut Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Medium cherry-red colour. The wide nose mixes high tones, powdery red fruit and an interesting depth. The palate is lovely; ripe, sweet fruit, perfectly balancing acidity, melting tannins and a burst of intensity in the mid-palate that leads you to the mouth-watering finish. The finish is medium-plus length with a hint of chocolate. Young but I have to say drinking beautifully today!

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