Slightly diffuse aromatics but with a very pretty red fruit that’s holding things together. Ooh, there are grand crus with less drive and concentration in 2017 – what a beauty! Bravo!

Similar in colour to the villages, but the nose has more depth and dimension – there is an almost jellied quality to the black and red fruit – very lovely – heavier than the villages but not overweight. In the mouth there is likewise more dimension and impact, but there is no fat or padding to distract – such lovely acidity, and tannin that I had no inclination to search for. Nothing in the slightest ‘facile’ about this ‘Charmes; intensity, some minerality and an overall package that captivates. Bravo!

Aromatically round, but less wide than the 2009. Lovely tongue-enveloping flavour, the tannins is all-but covered, but it’s there all the same. Will be a beauty.