Medium yellow. The nose has some very faint bread, a few higher tones and a denser core – perhaps more savoury than fruity. Density, again with a savoury flavour, there’s good acidity yet it seems to stand to the side rather than take command of the core – but there’s also a nice extra creamy flavour in the mid-palate. Quite full, indeed a little dense because the lack of authority from the acidity. Wait 90 minutes and the fruit comes more to the fore and takes on a better focus as the acidity integrates. Plenty of flavour here and eventually balance too – perhaps the screw-cap just needs a bit of aeration. A bit of a bargain.

The nose is fuller than the Puligny though still relatively understated. Another lithe wine that slowly widens in the mouth – energetic and flavoursome.

The third vintage for this cuvée. Very pale yellow. High tones, very fine yet an extra depth of fruit aroma. Again there’s a beautiful blend of acidity and sweetness. Finally a small savoury element in the finish – super (again!).

50 year-old vines in the south of the appellation, raised in 20% new oak. The nose is wide and high-toned with an underscore of pineapple. Wow – explodes in the mouth! It’s not amazingly long, but it’s very attractive and shows excellent value.