Medium-plus colour. I have an impression of a little coffee at the centre of this wine’s aromas, but mainly this is a clean and almost 2006-style of Vosne with a textured depth to the aromas, edged with a little dark minerals – very fine. Across the tongue there’s nothing of the facile sweetness that some 2007s display, but there is a little of that borderline lack of ripeness that some other producer’s wines show – in this case it is on a really low level and adds an interesting element. There’s no denying the extra dimension of flavour it the end of the mid-palate. An excellent 2007 indeed.
2007
2007 Pavillon Beaune Les Epenottes
Medium, medium-plus colour. This has a nose that starts with quite a bit of vanilla – it’s also reflected in the early flavours – not my favourite but it just about avoids excess; behind is a raspberry coulee, and very nice that is! In the mouth this has the weight of a 1er cru Epenottes and a good ripe aspect to the fruit which lingers on an understated but fine line of acidity. If told this was a 1er cru from Beaune I don’t expect you’d quibble – though you might reject the barrel vanilla. Over 2-3 hours the unneccessary vanilla make-up fades significantly from both the aromas and flavours but underneath is a wine of excellent value.
2007 Boisset Jean-Claude Marsannay Blanc
Medium yellow. The nose has some very faint bread, a few higher tones and a denser core – perhaps more savoury than fruity. Density, again with a savoury flavour, there’s good acidity yet it seems to stand to the side rather than take command of the core – but there’s also a nice extra creamy flavour in the mid-palate. Quite full, indeed a little dense because the lack of authority from the acidity. Wait 90 minutes and the fruit comes more to the fore and takes on a better focus as the acidity integrates. Plenty of flavour here and eventually balance too – perhaps the screw-cap just needs a bit of aeration. A bit of a bargain.
2007 Boisset Jean-Claude Nuits St.Georges Lavières
Medium medium-plus colour. The nose has a floral aspect that vies with a deep core of perfumed red fruit. Fresh enough and shows a little more fat than the Morey at it’s side. Just a little fine tannin and a long line of fruit and mineral flavour that runs through the core into the finish. The flavour expands nicely in the finish – a baby peacock. Very lovely and very tasty in a ripe but fresh-enough fruit style – quite rare this in 2007!