Medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little, inky and earthy with plenty of background reduction – the reduction is a minor flavour component too – it neads to aerate a little, so I decant. An hour later and there’s a higher-toned red fruit note, faint alcohol too but the reduction is gone. The last drops have a lovely redcurrant lift. Decent impact, perhaps a little monolithic like some other Fourrier 04s, but the lingering flavours and the overall balance are very good. I don’t discern any vintage character, but I have the impression I’d probably rather drink a majority now than leave them all in the cellar.
2004
2004 Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes
Medium-plus colour. The nose shows herbal hints of mint and a faint cedar, but it’s hard to say if it’s part of the the 04 character, whatever, it’s on a very low level, overall a liitle floral and not too dense, eventually it delivers a nice acid cherry aroma. Fresh, with just a little astringency to the tannin. There is just enough sweetness to carry what would otherwise be mouth-puckering acidity. Not quite as clunky as the Clos St.Jacques currently shows and the good fruit flavour comes through well in the finish. Almost good.
2004 Ardhuy Beaune Petite Clos du Teurons Blanc
2004 Lignier-Michelot Chambolle-Musigny Les Gammaires
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a fine depth and only the faintest of the vintage taint – slowly that a builds to an almost unpleasant level – after 2 hours it fades a little, giving a faint spearmint edge and some nice red berry notes. In the mouth there’s reasonable density and slightly forward acidity. The texture is okay, as is the slightly savoury length – maybe even a first hint of mushroom is there. If a little overwhelming on the nose the ‘04 character’ remains only a faintly interesting note on the palate.
2004 Chauvenet Jean Nuits St.Georges Les Argillières
2004 Mortet Thierry Gevrey-Chambertin
Medium colour. The nose has more than a hint of 2004 about it, plenty of high-toned cedar but a quick swirl displays the frankly lovely red berry/cherry fruit below. In the mouth it’s a little mineral and perhaps a hint flimsy in the concentration department, but despite that, the flavours are really long in the finish. Slowly the palate’s texture apparently thickens with concentration. If you’re immune to the 2004 cedar it’s a buy.
2004 Berthaut Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux
Medium cherry-red. The nose starts with a dark oaky element intertwined with plenty of the 04 cedary green thing – after five minutes you have lost the dark part, it’s even eventually asparagus! In the mouth The fruit is sweet, but it’s really pushed into the background by the slightly mouth-puckering effect of the tannin/acidity. There’s plenty of that cedar thing in the mouth too. It may have a future, but it’s hard to see it.
2004 Potel Nicolas Chambolle-Musigny
A good, medium, medium-plus colour. The nose alas is a mix of cedary green and mushroom, there’s a pretty red fruit trying to peek through but frankly it’s drowned. In the mouth it’s nicely concentrated with good fat and a lovely red fruit base. The acidity is good but slides you into a finish where the green raises its head again. Such a shame.