Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a ripe, macerating acid-red cherry centre. The fruit flavour is a mix of darker cherry – shaded much more to black. Good acidity and with a rasp to the tannin. A very nice dimension of good fruit in the mid-palate and quite okay length. Many of the most successful 03s come from the less vaunted appellations – here’s a perfect example that shows better than Chorey from most other vintages.
2003
2003 Grivot Jean Vosne-Romanée
Frankly, I’ve little experience of recent Grivots, so this will be interesting: Deep colour. Dense but not at all clunky red fruit – a little tight but nothing ungainly – slowly building some higher tones, rounding out to be quite lithe and not a bit jammy – a good 2003 nose. Mouth-filling though also a little mouth-puckering from the tannin, yet the acidity is not bad. Just a little mouth-watering which combined with the tannin that clings to your gums makes this quite long – incredibly young though. Not a bit of roasted fruit and showing enough energy on the palate. Clearly this needs lots of cellar time but it’s a very successful wine for the vintage – well done Etienne!
2003 Lignier-Michelot Morey St.Denis Vieilles Vignes
Medium-plus colour. The nose is forward, maybe a hint porty and certainly very ripe but generally the fruit talks of pinot. Ripe, plenty of concentration and very well mannered tannin. The understated acidity provides good balance and just enough freshness. It’s riper than I prefer, but if the nose talks of pinot then fruit on the palate clearly says burgundy. A good effort.
2003 Berthaut Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux
Medium-plus ruby-red, still with a cherry-hued rim. The nose is understated, deep and just a little tight. The palate is
concentrated, ripe, sweet and by a hairs-breadth avoids being ‘porty’. The flavour clings to the inside of your mouth with
understated, faintly bitter but relatively fine tannins and little dried fruits as a background – it hangs around quite
long. Sumptuous if not elegant. A pleasant enough 2003.
2003 Berthaut Fixin Les Crais
Only 20 hl/ha in this vintage – normally it’s 40. Ripe red/orange fruit on the nose. The palate is soft, ripe and enveloping – just slightly decadent. For my own taste it could do with a little more acidity, but the balance is not so bad, just a hint of anise to go with the fruit. If you like the vintage you’ll like this wine.
2003 Berthaut Fixin Les Clos
A little paler. Ripe, baked fruit with some pot-pourri spice background. A sweet palate that avoids being cloying – plenty of red confiture. Soft, with good apparent concentration. Not quite so decadent as the 2003 ‘Crais’ but still with a twist of hedonism! I’d say that this would still benefit from 1-3 years more in the cellar.
2003 Thomas-Moillard Nuits St.Georges Les Richemones
2003 Gelin Pierre Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Meixvelle
Medium colour. A deep nose of latent oak and faint reduction, slowly revealing faint herbs and interesting if not too obvious over-ripe elements. In the mouth it’s intense with furry tannins and surprises with a very impressive length. There’s a faint bitternes, probably form the tannins, but overall quite an impressive 2003.