A medium-plus core of ruby-red colour. The nose starts a little dense and unyielding, only slowly and partially opening to give a tense, brooding red cherry impression against fainter savoury elements, perhaps hinting at brett. In the mouth this is silkily textured, still with a grain to the background tannin. The acidity is not perfectly seamless in the mid-palate, but makes your mouth gently water. In the mid-palate there’s a very impressive concentration of clean and tasty fruit that does have a small burst of additional dimension. A good finish. This wine has only very slowly opened in the last couple of years and I would say it needs another couple of years to start drinking well, I’m just a little concerned about that bretty element on the nose. A successful ‘97.
1997
1997 Potel Nicolas Volnay
Quite deeply coloured ruby-red and starting to gain a shade of amber at the rim. Wide, slightly ethereal aromatics with a submerged but dense core of darker fruit – very interesting. The full palate shows plenty of fine background tannin that’s edged with a little bitterness. There’s just enough acidity and the flavour lingers very well, hinting to cream – there was a slightly green cedary phase but then it was gone. A very fine 97 and a better drink than the d’Angerville 99 from yesterday.
1997 Giboulot Emmanuel Beaune Lalune
1997 Rion Daniel Vosne-Romanée
1997 Tardy Jean Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets
1997 Giboulot Emmanuel Côte de Beaune Le Grand Chatelaine
1997 Jadot Louis Auxey-Duresses
1997 Javillier Patrick Meursault Cuvée Tête de Murger
(Magnum) Medium yellow. The nose is very understated – tight even – but quite round. The palate seems to mirror the nose with a very narrow entry though quickly it opens out into the mid-palate. The acidity is not bad, contributing to to a good savoury length. Today the tightness gives this the impression that it lacks character, but there are no obvious faults. Leave for a couple of years and re-try.
1997 Potel Nicolas Volnay Vieilles Vignes
Highly rated by Coates on release this wine tightened up and hid it’s charms very soon afterwards – most bottles were disappointing until last year when it looked like it might be turning the corner. Today it shows a medium-plus ruby-red colour. Cool, the nose is imbued with a hint of roast coffee and faint plum. As it warms, high-toned red berry fruit and red-currant is released. The palate gives a ripe impression, but still manages to serve-up sour cherry with a caramel edged finish. Still on the up, without a doubt the best bottle from this case.